Sanding existing door trim

Easiest is to use a shave hook. It has different profiles. Or take them off and give them a caustic bath. This gives a nice antique effect.
The short facings can be removed and a square rosette put into the top corner, it could gain you that wee bit extra. This again can give an aged appearance.
Hope this helps
Jamie

Dremel has the “Multi-Max” ...as does rigid, fein and several other manufacturers that put out a similar tool under various names….it is basically a rotary tool with snap on cutters and snap on sanding heads that use the oscillating motion of the rotary tool. You can also use a dremel or rotary tool on slow speed with a sanding wheel or flat disk. There are also small sanders with triangular heads by black and decker, craftsman and one called the mouse (looks like a mouse on your computer)....Festool has a fantastic sander with multiple head configurations (Festools are expensive though and not for one time users – I would only recommend them if you plan to do other wood working). Your local Borg (Big Box Store) will have all the above but the Festool tools…and at moderate prices.

For hand sanding, this would be a good place to use one of the “soft sanders” – basically a sponge with sandpaper attached (I use a piece of pipe insulation with some stick back sandpaper attached. These too will be at your local Borg or hardware store.

for the door bottoms – mostly that would depend on the door – you would want to match the wood and pattern if any…and whether it is solid or hollow core. One way is to put one of those square inserts that slides on the door….mostly used for hanging weather striping or floor sweeps….I don’t see a threshold on the one pic and that might be another way to make the door look like it fits better. Otherwise look for your local building material recycler…they typically have lots of doors…fairly cheap that you can replace the shorts with.

For removing paint there is the heat gun method where you heat the paint then scrap it off. This works fairly well but care must be taken on the surrounding woods and such
I like chemical paint stripper. There several brands but the one I use Jasco. Mask off with vynil (sp) tape, brush on stripper, go have lunch then come back with a putty knife.
After all methods there is the sanding…

-- What do you mean I can't use a coat hanger for 12 ga wire?

Here’s what I think. If you replaced the trim with something to go with your new base trim, then all you would need to strip and sand is the jamb. That would be a lot less work (and MAYBE less exposure to lead-based paint)

Now, if you DO replace the trim with new, you might want to consider a little bit wider trim so you could cut the side jambs about a half-inch shorter to eliminate the big gap underneath the doors. The wider trim should compensate at the header-to-sheetrock union.

By the way, you’ve got an old ‘oval’ trim there. It was pretty popular in the 50’s to the 80’s. I don’t know of any place that would still stock it. It’s nice, but hard to replace if you ever need to.

Good luck with your project

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