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Topic by handystanley posted 01-17-2011 10:19 PM 17609 views 0 times favorited 20 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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handystanley

12 posts in 4096 days

01-17-2011 10:19 PM

Topic tags/keywords: roof slope trigonometery chart

I am planning on building a firewood storage shed. When I build it I want the roof to slope from front to back (i.e. higher in the front and lower in the back). The shed will be longer than it will be wide. The slope will run the width of the shed, which I am suspecting will be about 4 feet.

So my question is, does anyone know of a chart that will tell me what the slope drop will be over 4 feet at various degrees?

Hope I made myself clear.

Stan

-- Stan



View dfletcher's profile

dfletcher

128 posts in 4303 days

01-21-2011 06:34 AM

That will depend on what pitch you want your roof to be.

Example;

4:12 pitch means that for every 12” or 1’ you go horizontally, you go up 4”.

Depending on what material your roof is going to be and the area you live in, it is suggested to not go below 3:12 pitch.

Hope that helps

View Dan Lyke's profile

Dan Lyke

331 posts in 4949 days

01-25-2011 02:19 AM

And if you really want that in angle rather than as pitch, it’s time to break out your trigonometry.

If a flat roof is zero degrees, then the pitch will be the sine of the angle * 12 (because pitch is generally specified as feet of rise over 12 feet). In your case, the one side will be the sine of the angle * 4 because the base of the resulting triangle will be 4 feet.

And you can get the angle from the pitch by dividing the rise (opposite) over the span (adjacent) and taking the “arctan” or arc tangent (or “tan-1”) of the resulting number.

Just be careful that your scientific calculator gives you the answer in a number you understand, the default is usually radians, which humans generally don’t understand…

-- Dan Lyke, Petaluma California, http://www.flutterby.net/

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dfletcher

128 posts in 4303 days

01-25-2011 02:30 AM

Or you can just go over 12”, go up however much you want the pitch…... :-)

Actually, what Dan is saying will help you with the end cuts and such, or, you can get a carpenters speed square, I suggest Swanson, and use it. It actually comes with a nice little blue book that will help.

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garypr

20 posts in 3817 days

05-16-2011 01:06 AM

If you want you can find the Construction master pro calculator and figure all your studs before you ever buy the lumber. Its easy really.. If you want your wall to be 8 feet tall and 8 feet long with a 4:12 pich roof your last stud will be 32 inches taller than your fist stud. IF you decieded to use the calculator you would type in 32inch rise then 8 ft run. Because this model estimates number of studs you need to make sure the setting is for what you are using (example 16 inch stor button then 5 button) you want to enter RCL 5 and then you want to enter your base (8 ft – 32 inches) pressing feet and inches button then convert button and rise button. it should show base 5 ft -4 inch. then press rise until it says all the numbers you want.
RW1 7ft 6 11/16 inch
RW2 7ft 1 5/16
RW3 6ft 8 inches
rw4 6ft 2 11/16 inch
and it goes on.
if your on the east coast you probably use a pony wall instead of fraiming studs in and blocking in between studs, However if you build your front wall five and a half inches shorter than the side walls you can place 2×6s on top of your walls for trusses. If you get snow don’t use 4:12 pitch. use 7 or 8. Swanson Speed square is a better source of info if you can get your hands on the little blue book.

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handystanley

12 posts in 4096 days

05-16-2011 04:47 PM

Thank you everyone for your input and advice…much appreciated.

@ garyp…I live just north of San Francisco…so we rarely get any snow. I was thinking of a 3:12 pitch for the roof. Additionally, I am considering a lean-to type structure with the short wall faceing the fence. The front wall will be 6’ x 12’ and the back wall something like 5’ x 12’.

-- Stan

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Dan Lyke

331 posts in 4949 days

05-16-2011 05:03 PM

I live just north of you (Petaluma), and I’m about to pull down a structure that might have some salvageable corrugated steel roofing, if you wanted to be a total cheapskate about building this shed [grin].

Or give a holler if you just need a hand getting a wall or two up come that time.

(I’ve got a workshop going up this summer, which is why I’m demolishing that other structure, and I’ll be calling in all the favors I can on those days when I’m raising the walls…)

-- Dan Lyke, Petaluma California, http://www.flutterby.net/

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handystanley

12 posts in 4096 days

05-16-2011 05:41 PM

With the cost of materials now a days I might be interested. Maybe we can work something out exchanging time helping one another out.

On a side note, I see from a Google search that you enjoy cycling…just got back on my bike after being off for a year to one physical challenge after another. Need to start riding more.

Send me an email to [email protected] with you contact info!

-- Stan

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garypr

20 posts in 3817 days

05-16-2011 07:48 PM

Looks like your in good hands. If you are familiar with framing you know California style framing started it all.

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dineshobroy

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08-24-2013 11:48 AM

I take it you have been using “shed” felt, if you get some heavy mineral surfaced felt it will last for years and years,I did my shed with ordinary thin shed felt once and I had to replace it due to ripping,the replacement felt I used was the heavy stuff and that was nearly 40 years ago and its still good and its just tacked on (every inch)

-- Home Design / Home Services

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