How to support 55" countertop span

well you could shim it with a stiff rubber shim to the top of the machines, or if you are worried about vibration, a vertical piece of material between the machines would do the job nicely.

-- caring costs nothing

Jeff: How much room do you have between the washer and dryer? One way is to use MDF and make a leg from front to back between the two.
William G. Yasovsky, Michael Yasovsky Construction, Bellefonte, PA

-- William G. Yasovsky, Michael Yasovsky Construction, Bellefonte, PA

Countertops can be pretty sturdy. They are built to be rigid, so, there may not need to be any support between the spans since you are supporting it on the sides and the back.

However, i would set it up and “mock” the span and such to see if you will have to much.

If so, the best way would be to put something between the washer/dryer. You should have enough room.

Just fill the space with old socks. They all end up there anyway. (But only singles, no pairs allowed).

-- Beth, Oklahoma, Rambling Road Designs

I can make some space between the two for a MDF or plywood support as a few of you have suggested… BUT, the floor is lino over the cement floor so can I still fasten that down or do I just fasten it at the top, to the underside of the counter?

-- - Jeff

I would just fasten it at the top, possibly at the backside, against the wall as well, to stop it from moving, but, just the top would suffice.

I am doing the exact same project however with an 87 inch counter.
My plan is to support the counter along the back, sides via the sink base cabinet and a MDF between the washer and dryer. I was thinking of simply using brackets to secure the MDF to the underside of the counter. I don’t beleive I would need to secure to the floor, because the weight of the counter should stabilize it.

I do have a question for you. Have you made the cabinet yet. I need to custom make one because of the height of the washer and dryer (standard size cabinets are too short), but haven’t found a decent plan or ideas yet on going about it.

Hi Jeff,

I have built the cabinet (minus the doors). I didn’t follow a plan, they are really simple when you break it down as just a plywood box. In addition to the custom height, I also had to make the toe-kick high enough to avoid a baseboard heater. I chose to use face frames to match an existing cabinet in the room. I had a book on kitchen cabinets that I referred to for general construction techniques “Building Traditional Kitchen Cabinets” by Jim Tolpin.

The carcass was put together with biscuits. The face frame was joined with pocket screws, and attached to the carcass with pocket screws. They make the job go a lot faster.

I didn’t bother making the cabinet the full depth of the washer and dryer due to special circumstances (i.e. plumbing in the way). It ended up being about 2’ deep.

If you use SketchUp I’ve shared my model with you: Cabinet Model

Hope that helps,

-- - Jeff

Thanks for sharing! Never made cabinets before so your sketchup is very inspiring.
Cheers
Jeff

Just put a cleat on the wall at the rear of the counter, could be just 3/4×2” ply even.