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Framing trim around windows - how to?

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Topic by Vasko posted 03-29-2011 06:16 AM 4978 views 0 times favorited 7 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Vasko

7 posts in 3472 days

03-29-2011 06:16 AM

Topic tags/keywords: question living room windows remodeling

Hi there,

I’m not sure if this is in the proper forum, but I’m hoping someone can give me some advice on trimming out my windows!

I have the chance to get walnut boards, and I wanted to use them to frame around my windows and doors – sort of a Mission or Arts and Crafts look. The walnut will be surfaced as s4s (sufaced on all sides) to 3-3/4” wide by 3/8” thick. Would the 3/8” be too thin to use? I don’t know what a typical thickness of window trim is. If it’s usable, how should I attach it? Can I run adhesive on the back and nail it on with finishing nails, filling the countersunk holes? I live in a mobile home, so I don’t have large or bulky base & crown molding – I’d like to keep the profile shallow. I worry about cupping though. (the wood will be finished with oil based satin spar)

Many thanks for any input!
Cindy

-- Cindy, in the mountains of Virginia



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Dan Lyke

331 posts in 4562 days

03-30-2011 12:53 AM

3/8” seems a little thin, but doable. I’d measure what you’ve got and compare. Yeah, cupping might be an issue, but if you thoroughly finish the wood before you put it up, then give it another coat afterwards, it should be pretty good. If I were doing it, I’d nail it with my pin nailer, but finishing nails driven pretty deep covered with a bit of dark putty should look okay.

-- Dan Lyke, Petaluma California, http://www.flutterby.net/

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Vasko

7 posts in 3472 days

04-01-2011 10:28 PM

Thanks Dan for responding – I apologize for not acknowledging your answer sooner – I was without internet access until the repairmen came today. I’d really like to use the walnut, so I’ll give it a try and pay close attention to your tips!

-- Cindy, in the mountains of Virginia

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Dan Lyke

331 posts in 4562 days

04-01-2011 11:02 PM

No worries, Cindy. Thinking about it a bit further, do you know anyone from whom you could borrow a 18ga pin nailer? That way you could cut the trim, put it up, if it warps you can pull it back down, dry it out, and then try someting more aggressive (like adhesives). And you wouldn’t have to worry so much about filling holes from the nailing (you’d probably not even be able to see the nail holes)

-- Dan Lyke, Petaluma California, http://www.flutterby.net/

View dfletcher's profile

dfletcher

128 posts in 3916 days

04-05-2011 03:09 AM

A pin nailer probably;y wouldn’t keep it up without cupping unless you put some good adhesive on it. You probably really want to use an 18 ga. nailer.

Is this being done inside or outside?

If it is inside, cupping shouldn’t be much of an issue

If it is outside, you definitely want to nail closer to the sides, to keep it in place, no less that 3/8” from the edges.

There are some good putties out there to cover nail holes, but, I would definitely try it on a scrap piece first.

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Vasko

7 posts in 3472 days

04-05-2011 04:51 AM

Thanks guys - This is trim for the inside, I still can’t decide on the walnut (my favorite wood) or pine. I really should stick to my original plan of pine, since I’m doing the floors in t&g pine flooring stained black walnut. I have two 22” x 72” walnut slabs that will be benches in front of the living room windows, that’s what got me on the walnut kick. This is a fairly wild looking figured, knotty walnut with sapwood – very interesting to my eye.

If I go with the pine, it will be a kind of pine sold at our local HD, with tiny knots that are tight & sound. I just didn’t like the thickness (1”) of the pine. (of course it’s not truly 1”). I don’t have access to a pin nailer, and I don’t think this project really requires one. (menopausal women love hammers! lol) The reason I will finish the wood in satin spar is because of the moisture in the air (open windows). The thickness of the pine won’t give me trouble, I didn’t know if the walnut was too thin to use…
Thanks!
Cindy

-- Cindy, in the mountains of Virginia

View crank49's profile

crank49

9 posts in 3462 days

04-08-2011 05:55 AM

You might consider finishing on all sides before gluing it on. I have heard of glue on unfinished wood, where the opposite side is finished, causing cupping and warping.

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Vasko

7 posts in 3472 days

12-17-2011 02:47 PM

Thanks simi for the tips on my old post! I haven’t done the window trim yet – I was going to use walnut boards, but decided to go with polyurethane molding. I wouldn’t used nails with the adhesive if you hadn’t posted this ~ thanks!

-- Cindy, in the mountains of Virginia

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