Floating laminate floor and base boards

You do not need to space the trim up from the floor. The floor will slide around under the trim.

Second question- Floating floors move a lot, space the floor at least a 1/4” from the walls (use spacers/shims, or something that stays put) If your drywall does not touch the floor and the laminate can pass easily underneath to the bottomplate, then that should allow for expansion, just make sure as you are working that space does not have flooring shoved into it.

If your underlayment foam does not have taped edges then tape all of your edges together, this will help prevent moisture from wicking off the conrete sub-floor. Also, dont overlap the underlayment, you can feel the overlap after the floor goes down.

Door frames can be a bit of a pain, sometimes you have to get creative. It is easiest to put the floor down and then install the door, that way you are not fighting your flooring. I have chipped plenty of laminate flooring edges when becoming impatient.

Laminate is generally easy stuff, just be sure to keep the proper expansion gaps at the wall.

good luck

-- I found the board stretcher... finally!

Pick up one of the inexpensive installation kits. It will have spacers and tapping blocks to help snap things together. They also sometimes have a hook to get the trickier ones close to the wall.

-- The difference between a pro and an amateur, an amateur points out his mistakes

J and Gary,

Thank you very much! I’ll follow you kind advice and I’ll find a kit. Would you all mind advising which tape I should use?

-- Working on my home for 2 years and counting.

plain old clear 2” wide packing/shipping tape works really well. Like Gary says the install kits are helpful, but I have hardwood scraps around that I have made into the same shapes as the kit. I have never seen a hook for the tricky pieces, but next time I am out at the big box store I will look and certainly add one to my arsenal if I do not have something else that replaces that tool.

-- I found the board stretcher... finally!

Well how about that – packing tape! I surprised and pleased with that information.

I think I get the concept of the hook. I believe I can manage without it, especially since I’m going to give a quarter inch from the wall spacing and I’m almost positve the sheetrrock doesn’t meet the floor. I will probably find out really fast when I start to click these planks together.

-- Working on my home for 2 years and counting.

Howdy, I went in to buy the kit but was full of junk tools. I opted to buy the pieces of the kit individually. I see what the hook looks like. The dude at home depot called it a Puller. One again i changed my mind and bought it. Since the Sheetrock does sit flush on the floor, I didn’t buy the spacers. Ready to Rock and roll tomorrow!

-- Working on my home for 2 years and counting.

You still have to space the flooring off the sheetrock/drywall if it is down close to the floor. the flooring needs room to expand and contract or it will buckle. I have witnessed such tragedies…..so sad.

-- The difference between a pro and an amateur, an amateur points out his mistakes

I was missing a special word. I said ‘does sit flush’. Call it a typo “does NOT sit flush”. I still gave a 3/16 of an inch though. Used some old levellor blinds for spacers.

Gary, I didn’t use the tools much but I’m glad I had them. Thanks for the advice!

-- Working on my home for 2 years and counting.

Several epoxy floors contractors work with standard contractors as sub-companies. www.atlantaepoxyfloors.com

I learnt a lot from this article, truly. I have a number of customers that rent out portable storage units from us and they ask about flooring every once in a while for various reasons. Seems like this click and lock thing might be a good temporary solution for them!

-- Paul Chau: https://supercheapselfstorage.com.au/facilities/perth/south-perth/