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Floating laminate floor and base boards

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Topic by MarkTheFiddler posted 07-13-2012 12:40 PM 11972 views 0 times favorited 10 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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MarkTheFiddler

447 posts in 2621 days

07-13-2012 12:40 PM

Topic tags/keywords: question bedroom floors foundation flooring

Howdy,

I’m about to install a click and lock, floating laminate floor in my son’s room.

I never did such a thing before, although I have installed a glue down, engineered floor. That gives me a little knowledge on the remedial subjects. I’m planning on using a foam underlayment to make it serve for noise reduction and as a vapor barrier. One thing I do know is this laminate is pretty cheap and It won’t do well with moisture but I only need it to do the job until he moves out of the house. That should be a max of 10 years for a doctorate. (Like I’m made of money – I’m using cheap laminate for heavens sake! If he wants to be called doctor, he can pay for my retirement.)

I’ll ask a goofy question. Do I install the baseboard touching the top of the floating floor or do I give it a little gap.

Second Goofy question – are there any common mistakes I can avoid?

Thanks Very much for looking.

-- Working on my home for 2 years and counting.



View J's profile

J

70 posts in 2595 days

07-31-2012 09:04 PM

You do not need to space the trim up from the floor. The floor will slide around under the trim.

Second question- Floating floors move a lot, space the floor at least a 1/4” from the walls (use spacers/shims, or something that stays put) If your drywall does not touch the floor and the laminate can pass easily underneath to the bottomplate, then that should allow for expansion, just make sure as you are working that space does not have flooring shoved into it.

If your underlayment foam does not have taped edges then tape all of your edges together, this will help prevent moisture from wicking off the conrete sub-floor. Also, dont overlap the underlayment, you can feel the overlap after the floor goes down.

Door frames can be a bit of a pain, sometimes you have to get creative. It is easiest to put the floor down and then install the door, that way you are not fighting your flooring. I have chipped plenty of laminate flooring edges when becoming impatient.

Laminate is generally easy stuff, just be sure to keep the proper expansion gaps at the wall.

good luck

-- I found the board stretcher... finally!

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GaryL

206 posts in 3185 days

08-01-2012 12:57 AM

Pick up one of the inexpensive installation kits. It will have spacers and tapping blocks to help snap things together. They also sometimes have a hook to get the trickier ones close to the wall.

-- The difference between a pro and an amateur, an amateur points out his mistakes

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MarkTheFiddler

447 posts in 2621 days

08-01-2012 03:58 AM

J and Gary,

Thank you very much! I’ll follow you kind advice and I’ll find a kit. Would you all mind advising which tape I should use?

-- Working on my home for 2 years and counting.

View J's profile

J

70 posts in 2595 days

08-01-2012 04:32 AM

plain old clear 2” wide packing/shipping tape works really well. Like Gary says the install kits are helpful, but I have hardwood scraps around that I have made into the same shapes as the kit. I have never seen a hook for the tricky pieces, but next time I am out at the big box store I will look and certainly add one to my arsenal if I do not have something else that replaces that tool.

-- I found the board stretcher... finally!

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MarkTheFiddler

447 posts in 2621 days

08-01-2012 04:51 AM

Well how about that – packing tape! I surprised and pleased with that information.

I think I get the concept of the hook. I believe I can manage without it, especially since I’m going to give a quarter inch from the wall spacing and I’m almost positve the sheetrrock doesn’t meet the floor. I will probably find out really fast when I start to click these planks together.

-- Working on my home for 2 years and counting.

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MarkTheFiddler

447 posts in 2621 days

08-02-2012 04:51 AM

Howdy, I went in to buy the kit but was full of junk tools. I opted to buy the pieces of the kit individually. I see what the hook looks like. The dude at home depot called it a Puller. One again i changed my mind and bought it. Since the Sheetrock does sit flush on the floor, I didn’t buy the spacers. Ready to Rock and roll tomorrow!

-- Working on my home for 2 years and counting.

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GaryL

206 posts in 3185 days

08-03-2012 10:31 PM

You still have to space the flooring off the sheetrock/drywall if it is down close to the floor. the flooring needs room to expand and contract or it will buckle. I have witnessed such tragedies…..so sad.

-- The difference between a pro and an amateur, an amateur points out his mistakes

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MarkTheFiddler

447 posts in 2621 days

08-04-2012 01:41 AM

I was missing a special word. I said ‘does sit flush’. Call it a typo “does NOT sit flush”. I still gave a 3/16 of an inch though. Used some old levellor blinds for spacers.

Gary, I didn’t use the tools much but I’m glad I had them. Thanks for the advice!

-- Working on my home for 2 years and counting.

View johneyluke's profile

johneyluke

9 posts in 161 days

04-13-2019 10:33 AM

Several epoxy floors contractors work with standard contractors as sub-companies. www.atlantaepoxyfloors.com

View PaulChau's profile

PaulChau

9 posts in 150 days

04-29-2019 08:31 AM

I learnt a lot from this article, truly. I have a number of customers that rent out portable storage units from us and they ask about flooring every once in a while for various reasons. Seems like this click and lock thing might be a good temporary solution for them!

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