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Topic by MarkTheFiddler posted 08-20-2012 12:08 PM 3267 views 0 times favorited 27 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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MarkTheFiddler

447 posts in 2562 days

08-20-2012 12:08 PM

Topic tags/keywords: miter saw tablesaw

I was cutting some scraps of maple for a small project. My previously owned Dewalt miter was putting a slight angle on the cuts. I was against the vertical stop and came straight down. My cut was still angled. It’s not horrible but it’s still not acceptable for detail work.

I also tried a few cuts on the table saw. It dulled my harbor freight blade. I’m going to buy a Dewalt blade for the saw. I hope I won’t have to build a new crosscut sled. That would top the cruddy experience nicely.

-- Working on my home for 2 years and counting.



View J's profile

J

70 posts in 2535 days

08-20-2012 04:45 PM

It sounds like you just need to square up your saw, or adjust the plate with the preset positive stop plate. It’s not a big deal and usually takes less than 15 minutes.

There are tons of Youtube videos that show you how to “square up a compound miter saw”

And if you are going to replace your table saw blade I would suggest a Combination type blade. Freud, Diablo are good blades and reasonably priced. Home Depot’s Ridgid brand also had a good combination blade.

-- I found the board stretcher... finally!

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MarkTheFiddler

447 posts in 2562 days

08-20-2012 09:12 PM

Thanks J, I’ll go for a diablo instead of the dewalt. I know I can find those. I don’t know if I can find the combo type so I won’t settle for other types. I’ll order it if I have to.

On the Miter – thanks for the lead. I’ll look up up some videos and get it true.

Good to hear from you!

-- Working on my home for 2 years and counting.

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BillyJ

253 posts in 3596 days

08-20-2012 09:23 PM

Mark – 10” or 12”? Not that it matters much, but remember, you’re talking miter saw. It takes very little for those tools to be thrown off. I agree with J. Freud is the best way to go for your money. If you’re looking for 100% spot-on cuts, make a miter cross-cut sled.

-- No matter how many times I measure, I always forget the dimensions before I cut.

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MarkTheFiddler

447 posts in 2562 days

08-20-2012 09:42 PM

I have a 12 inch miter saw (and a 7 inch). The 12 inch is causing the problem.

Have you ever made a miter cross cut sled? I have a cross cut sled but I haven’t done anything fancy with it.

I really like the ability to mark a point on a surface, bring the miter blade down for a dry run, then cutting for real. I

‘ll try J’s suggestion. He said 15 minutes but it’s me. If I can get it straight in an hour, I’ll be happy. I bought the miters for miter cutting. My hope is to avoid building a sled for the cut.

Thanks for the feedback Billy. I’m all cranky today, I hope I haven’t stuck foot in mouth.

-- Working on my home for 2 years and counting.

View J's profile

J

70 posts in 2535 days

08-20-2012 09:43 PM

Just to be clear, a combination blade is for the table saw because it is meant for both cross cuts and rip cuts.

+1 to Billy on a good sled for superior, repeatable accuracy.

-- I found the board stretcher... finally!

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MarkTheFiddler

447 posts in 2562 days

08-21-2012 12:44 PM

Point taken my friends. Thank you so much! I’m still a little deflated that all this equipment, made for miter cuts, is not the best option for miter cuts. However, I know that my basic sled wont last forever and I am thinking up-grade on the table saw.

I always appreciate your wisdom!

-- Working on my home for 2 years and counting.

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GaryL

206 posts in 3126 days

08-21-2012 08:46 PM

I always use a Freud Industrial negative hook tooth blade on all my miter saws. Drastically reduces any chipout and lasts a long time between sharpenings.

-- The difference between a pro and an amateur, an amateur points out his mistakes

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MarkTheFiddler

447 posts in 2562 days

08-22-2012 04:07 AM

Gary,

I was looking for anything that would indicate negative hook on the Freud site but I came up empty handed. Would you mind giving me a link?

Billy and J, do either of you recommend any plans for a miter crosscut sled set up? If I’m going to attempt one like that, I’d really like your recommendation.

Heck, while I’m so busy asking for info. If you have a link to your recommended table saw blades. I might as well get that too. It costs a fortune sometimes but trusting you guys costs a lot less than mistakes.

-- Working on my home for 2 years and counting.

View J's profile

J

70 posts in 2535 days

08-22-2012 05:35 AM

I know you asked Gary for a link, but here’s one at Amazon.com
http://www.amazon.com/Freud-LU91R012-12-Inch-Sliding-PermaShield/dp/B0002TUFXG/ref=sr_1_3?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1345609623&sr=1-3&keywords=negative+hook+saw+blade+12%22

I assumed you were looking for an “inexpensive” 12” cross-cut blade, but yeah the blade that Gary suggested is up there with the WoodWorker line in performance, and at about $75 for a 12” (that’s inexpensive if it makes you money and lasts) I would probably stockpile a couple of them if it wasn’t for the chain saw shop near here that will customize and refurbish worn blades for much less than $1 per tooth.

For a sled—look for what you need on LumberJocks, there are so many great sleds with many great features and built at a wide range of price points. I made my sled out of 1/2” baltic birch plywood because it is flat and stable and I followed John Nixon’s video. Here is a link: http://lumberjocks.com/EagleLakeWoodworking/blog/7787

Even if you are not as well equipped as this LJ you can still improvise with some clamps, straight edges, router bits and a handheld drill, etc..

-- I found the board stretcher... finally!

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BillyJ

253 posts in 3596 days

08-22-2012 01:41 PM

Mark – Both Gary and J gave you a lot of info – nothing more I can add, other then I didn’t make my sled. I purchased an Incra Miter Gauge 5000 (http://www.woodpeck.com/incramiter5k.html). Although I made a large sled for large wood, I’ve purchased all of my other jigs. It takes too much of my time, which is more precious then money, right now.

I’ll second any comment on negative rake blades. I’ve found Freud to be the best bang for the buck (I’m repeating myself, I know). Last year I attended AWFS in Las Vegas. My friend purchased a Tenryu blade while there. He had used Forrest blades, but the cost of having them ground properly was getting out of hand. He tried the Tenryu (which claims to be better then Forrest), and is very satisfied. However, all things considered, he’ll still put a Freud on his saw – they are dependable and less expensive then Forrest blades.

Check out the Tenryu web site (http://justsawblades.com/ten/choosing_the_right_blade.html). It talks about blades and what to look for.

Finally, J is absolutely correct with his last sentence. Your problem might be as simple as blocking and clamping your wood. Although you think you’re holding tight, the wood will pull just a bit. Even 1-degree will mess things up.

-- No matter how many times I measure, I always forget the dimensions before I cut.

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BillyJ

253 posts in 3596 days

08-22-2012 01:53 PM

Oh, one more thing. You probably bought the DeWalt 12” double bevel sliding miter saw. I have one, too. The very first thing I did was pull the blade off and replaced with the Freud blade Gary is talking about. I take the saw to jobs, where the need for fast, semi-accurate cuts is necessary. If I’m building cabinets, that’s done in the shop, and out comes the sled.

BUT – and like J says, if you don’t have all the tools, you make use of whatever you have an try to take out all of the possible reasons for things to go amiss. It’s taken me years to come to the realization that there is nothing better then the best possible tool – period. One day I’ll buy a Festool Kapex, but I don’t have an extra $1,500 laying around doing nothing.

-- No matter how many times I measure, I always forget the dimensions before I cut.

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BillyJ

253 posts in 3596 days

08-22-2012 10:00 PM

Mark – if you have a Rockler around you, they have a miter sled on sale. If not, you can order one, with free shipping for $90, until this Saturday (http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=21487&utm_source=NL&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=V2166)

-- No matter how many times I measure, I always forget the dimensions before I cut.

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MarkTheFiddler

447 posts in 2562 days

08-24-2012 03:24 AM

My friends – you have been extremely helpful to me. I’m going to make the suggestions come true one way or the other. I’ll start with a blade for the table saw and begin building from there. In my immediate future – and I do mean immediate, I will only need the table saw to work well and my small miter saw. My basic cross cut sled will do the trick -

You see -

I can’t play around anymore. No time to learn more and try to make some beautiful finished pieces. The orders have come from far beyond my sphere of influence. My precious wife and daughter have commanded me. I am to do my daughters room NOW.

Still – I have my reference manual right here. I am going to swing back in and start working toward fulfilling my dream of having a great set of tools. I am dreaming of making fine furniture once again. It would be grand if I could make something beautiful that wasn’t completely covered in fabric.

-- Working on my home for 2 years and counting.

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MarkTheFiddler

447 posts in 2562 days

08-25-2012 04:18 AM

I got the 10 inch Diablo thin kerf blade for the table saw today. It’s the the 50 tooth combination version. 40 bucks at home depot. I’m sure it will run circles around the harbor freight stock blade that’s on there now. I was a little hesitant about getting it because I felt it would Make thinner cuts than what I have. That wouldn’t be an issue except that I will use it to cut decorative grooves in my door casing. Apparently, my concerns were wIthout basis because the tips of the teeth are the same as my old one. I’m happy about that.

Can’t wait to get it spinning.

Billy FYI – I don’t have a sliding double bevel saw. It only has the single
Bevel and it’s stationary. At least it’s a 12 blade

-- Working on my home for 2 years and counting.

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MarkTheFiddler

447 posts in 2562 days

08-27-2012 06:28 PM

The Diablo 10”, 50 point combination saw cuts very nicely. I was so used to my old blade that this one seemed to whisper as it went through laminate flooring. I couldn’t see any blade marks on the cut edges of my material, either through ripping or crosscuts. Of course, that’s just laminate with the MDF backing. There are visible rough edges on the laminate surface. This was limited to the laminate surface alone for crosscuts. Not really an issue since 99% of all my cross cuts are against the walls but I had two sections, up against the bifold clost door wardware where the roughness is visible. I wouldn’t necessarily care except my daughter noticed it.

Perhaps I should have scribed all the way around the closet door jam and hardware to avoid the frayed crosscut. It just seemed to be way more complicated than I wanted to invest the time in so I just scribed 2 sides instead of one big one. Next time I’ll do the same thing but I’ll align the click to meet at the center of my cuts. That should avoid the tiny frayed edge.

-- Working on my home for 2 years and counting.

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MarkTheFiddler

447 posts in 2562 days

08-29-2012 04:50 PM

My friends,

It took a little while for me to figure it out. Now I have a very embarrassing confession to make. The blade on my used 12 inch, single bevel compound miter saw is a ripping blade. To top that off, it seems to be a little dull. I just can’t see that I will ever have a use for it because my table saw uses a 10 inch blade.

Can any of you use it? It is a diablo. I will mail it to you. No charge, no s&h. Just a tiny token of my appreciation for you guys.

-- Working on my home for 2 years and counting.

View J's profile

J

70 posts in 2535 days

08-29-2012 11:12 PM

If you don’t get any takers you could always get a clock mechanism and mount it in your workshop to commemorate an early retirement for that Diablo blade.

-- I found the board stretcher... finally!

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MarkTheFiddler

447 posts in 2562 days

08-30-2012 01:00 AM

Too funny J. I take it your table saw does not use a 12 inch blade. I may end up with a collection of old saw blades that I could learn how to throw. I would be totally ready for a post apocalyptic world where everyone sports a Mohawk and assorted piercings with bones and railroad spikes. I’m not sure my little tile blades will do much more than inspire insane chuckling, but the 12 inch diablo should gain me a little respect.

-- Working on my home for 2 years and counting.

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MarkTheFiddler

447 posts in 2562 days

09-17-2012 08:49 PM

I was wrong again. It seems to be a hobby of mine. The 12 inch diablo is for soft woods. There is probably nothing wrong with it. I replaced it with a 12 inch Dewalt Italian made thin kerf 80 tooth crosscut blade. It sliced through an oak 2×3 like butter. It whispered though a hunk of Brazilian cherry. It cut that same maple that started this post like another dime a dozen cliche. That’s 3 cliches in 3 sentences. Must be another hobby of mine.

I rationalized not getting the all powerful Freud because I call myself a DIY-er. I hope I didn’t make a mistake I will regret later but right now I feel really good about this saw. The twisted cuts I complained about are gone. I have hardwood cutting equipment!!!! Thanks for all your support my friends.

-- Working on my home for 2 years and counting.

View J's profile

J

70 posts in 2535 days

09-17-2012 10:19 PM

As long as you are not cutting through boards covered in nails and clean the resin build up off every couple of months (or so) that blade could stay in your saw for years.

-- I found the board stretcher... finally!

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MarkTheFiddler

447 posts in 2562 days

09-18-2012 02:09 AM

Nails – check. Resin – huh? I imagine resin comes out
Of the wood and cooks onto the blade. What do you like to clean it with?

-- Working on my home for 2 years and counting.

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BillyJ

253 posts in 3596 days

09-18-2012 02:11 AM

Remember – generally speaking, you get what you pay for. Matters not – DIY’er or Pro. A good blade is always better then a bad one.

I’ll pitch a few cliche’s too, and I’m sure you’ve heard me say this a thousand times if I’ve said it once – always purchase the most expensive tool you can. I’m still waiting for my ship to come in with $1500 for my Festool Kapex (its actually $1350, but add tax, etc., etc.). You know what they say: A Festool in a hand is worth two DeWalts and a Bosch.

Gee – guess I should call it quits while I’m ahead.

-- No matter how many times I measure, I always forget the dimensions before I cut.

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MarkTheFiddler

447 posts in 2562 days

09-18-2012 02:31 AM

Bwah ha ha hah. Wait – I don’t get it. Snicker. I’ll share my nonsense. A 12 inch Dewalt miter saw with an Italian made cross cut blade is worth a harbor freight store.

-- Working on my home for 2 years and counting.

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MarkTheFiddler

447 posts in 2562 days

09-30-2012 01:11 AM

I broke down and bought a Freud full kerf 24 tooth ripping blade for the table saw. No more burns on the wood. A few saw marks but far shallower and much fewer. Cuts are very straight. The blades inagural test was Brazillian cherry. I give it a 93 of 100.

-- Working on my home for 2 years and counting.

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patriciadbab

1 post in 788 days

04-27-2017 08:49 AM

I want to be on the top. To be able to survive in this harsh life thank admin
bottle flip

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EmmaParker123

2 posts in 30 days

05-25-2019 12:06 PM



I was cutting some scraps of maple for a small project. My previously owned Dewalt miter was putting a slight angle on the cuts. I was against the vertical stop and came straight down. My cut was still angled. It s not horrible but it s still not acceptable for detail work.

I also tried a few cuts on the table saw. It dulled my harbor freight blade. I m going to buy a Dewalt blade for the saw. I hope I won t have to build a new crosscut sled. That would top the cruddy experience nicely.

- MarkTheFiddler


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EmmaParker123

2 posts in 30 days

05-25-2019 12:07 PM

Nice comment,

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